Christmas Village returns to LOVE Park

Philadelphia's Christmas Village is about to set up again, and this year it's doing something it's never done before. The market, which has been running since 2011 and is put together by a team from Germany, takes over LOVE Park, City Hall's Courtyard and the North Apron, turning the whole stretch into an open-air German Christmas market. Admission is free, which is the best part — you only pay for what you actually do or eat.

The dates are the first thing worth noting. The preview weekend falls on Saturday, November 21 and Sunday, November 22, with the official opening on Thanksgiving Day, November 26. From there it runs through December 27, and that last date is the real news: this is the first year the market stays open after Christmas Eve, keeping the lights on through December 26 and 27. Hours are 12:00 to 20:00 Sunday through Thursday and 12:00 to 21:00 Friday and Saturday, with Thanksgiving and Christmas Eve operating on shorter schedules. It closes on November 23, 24 and 25, and on Christmas Day itself.

For the rides, there's a 65-foot illuminated Ferris wheel on the North Apron that gives you the best night view of the skyline, a historic two-tiered carousel in the City Hall Courtyard, and a kids' train presented by SEPTA over in the North Broad section. They're pay-per-use, running from $4 to $7, and children under 12 and seniors 65 and older ride free all day, every day. If you're bringing kids, keep the height rules in mind: under 54 inches on the wheel, under 42 inches on the carousel and under 36 inches on the train need to be with a responsible, paying adult. Phil the Reindeer makes his first stroll on Saturday, November 21, and he's around Saturdays and Sundays from 13:00 to 16:00 for free photos.

Shopping is the core of the thing, with more than 120 independent vendors in wooden huts, many of them flying in from Europe. You'll find Käthe Wohlfahrt with hand-painted nutcrackers and smoked incense burners, Christmas Tree Hill with Pennsylvania-made soaps and candles, and The Nut House for roasted nuts in every flavor, alongside ornaments, toys, jewelry, home goods, hand-blown glass and alpaca wool scarves. The food leans hard into the German theme: Helmut's Original Austrian Strudel in apple, cheese or cherry, Thumann bratwurst grilled on rustic bread, raclette with melting Swiss cheese over potatoes, and chimney cakes rolled in cinnamon and sugar. Glühwein is served in boots or souvenir mugs, and there's a non-alcoholic spiced hot apple cider for everyone else. The newer additions are loaded baked potatoes and authentic Spanish churros with chocolate, Nutella or dulce de leche.

If you want to make an event of it, the Christkind arrival and pyramid lighting is on Sunday, November 29, from 16:00 to 17:00, with the traditional Christkind coming from Nuremberg. German American Weekend on December 5 and 6 brings Schuhplattler dancers, a beerstein holding contest and a bratwurst eating challenge, and Family Weekend on December 12 and 13 is built around kids' activities. The Ugly Sweater Contest final lands on December 19 with prizes and live music, and wine tastings run on several nights in early to mid-December. Getting there is easy: Suburban Station is a two-minute walk from the Regional Rail, and the B, L and T lines all stop at 15th Street/City Hall. If you drive, the LOVE Park Garage is right there and bookable through SpotHero or iParkit, with weekday and weekend rates around $20 to $21 for up to 16 hours.