Brighton's winter light trail returns

Brighton's winter light trail is one of those fixtures that quietly anchors the city's colder months, and it's back again with what's being billed as its most ambitious display to date. Put together by Brighton and Hove City Council, it's built for families and couples, and it has grown into a genuine staple of the local winter calendar. If you've never caught it before, it's the kind of evening that rewards a slow pace rather than a rush.

The route itself is a good part of the appeal, taking you along the seafront and through the Lanes, with an extension out onto the pier. The Lanes is the historic heart of the city, a maze of narrow alleys and hidden squares tucked between the North Laine and the seafront, and it's only about ten minutes from the station. A lot of it goes back to the 16th century, when Brighton was still a small fishing village known as Brighthelmstone, and some of the narrowest alleys, which locals call twittens, feel even older. You'll find four-hundred-year-old fishermen's cottages and slate stone facades alongside the pubs and cobblestones that give the area its character. There's history written into the walls here too: Black Lion Lane is said to have been the escape route of Charles II, and Quadrophenia Alley nods to the Mods and Rockers of the sixties, a nod to the cult film that took the neighbourhood as its backdrop. Today the alleys are lined with independent boutiques, jewellery shops and some of the best restaurants and bars in town, so it's easy to let the trail turn into a longer evening.

The extension takes you out onto Brighton Palace Pier, the Victorian pier that sits at the centre of the city's eight-mile stretch of coastline. It's 1,722 feet long and has been open since 20 May 1899, and a fair bit of that history is still there to see, from some of the original kiosks to a signal cannon from the Old Chain Pier and the filigree ironwork arches of the original structure. Beyond the lights, it's a working pier with its fish and chips restaurant, a range of hot food and drink stalls, fairground rides, two amusement arcades and Palace Play, the biggest indoor soft play area in Brighton, which spreads over four storeys and comes with a baby zone and a café for parents. The Dome building holds more than fifty arcade machines, from air hockey to dance mats and multiplayer games, so it's a natural place to let younger visitors burn off steam after the walk.

If you're planning your visit, it's worth knowing the pier is free to enter and stays open all year except Christmas Day, so it's easy to build around. It takes American Express, Diners Club, Maestro, MasterCard and Visa, and it's open on New Year's Day and bank holidays, with group discounts and guided tours if you're bringing a larger party. For anything specific to the trail, the council's Outdoor Events Office at The Events Office, Brighton Centre, is the place to ask, on 01273 293 001 or eventsinfo@brighton-hove.gov.uk.