Tucked down a quiet side street in the middle of town, Muriel's Cafe Bar is the kind of place that rewards a little curiosity. It sits at 12-14 Church Lane, away from the main bustle of Belfast city centre, and has earned its reputation as one of the most iconic bars in the heart of the city. The name itself comes from a former resident milliner, once known as the 'angel of the footpath', and that nod to local character runs right through the place.
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Step inside and the first thing you notice is the decor. It is unapologetically plush, with damask drapes, velvet seating and dark walls brought to life by mirrors, chandeliers and an open fire. Downstairs there is a display of hat paraphernalia that gives a wink to Muriel's less lascivious past, and Art Deco photographs and artefacts are scattered throughout. It is stylish without being stuffy, and the staff are as inventive and knowledgeable as the room is well-appointed. On a fine day you can sit outside, but when the weather turns it is just as easy to settle in and people-watch from the warmth of the interior. At the weekend, DJs keep things moving with a suitably eclectic soundtrack in the background.
What most people come for, though, is the gin. The gin menu is the real draw here, widely described as a cracking list and given the nickname 'The Gin Den' by regulars. It is worth having a look at the cocktail of the week, which changes and keeps things fresh. If you are not in the mood for a drink, the kitchen covers a lot of ground. Breakfast is a strong suit, with croque monsieur, eggs benedict and oak smoked salmon on the menu, and the all-day platters of meat, cheese and seafood make it an easy spot for lunch or an early dinner. There is a vegetarian option too, with blue cheese sauce, grilled eggs and vegetables.
It is the sort of place that works at almost any hour. On weekdays it runs from 11:30am right through to 1am, and at the weekend it opens earlier, from 10am on the Saturday and Sunday, so it suits a slow morning as much as a late night. The mid-range price point means it is accessible for a casual visit rather than something you save for a special occasion, and the 4.4-star rating from over 1,300 reviews tells you the consistency is there.
For anyone who likes to see a city through its food, Muriel's also features on a Belfast food tour that takes in ten tastings of Northern Irish bread, beer and seafood with a local guide, which is bookable through GetYourGuide. It is a nice way to fold the bar into a wider look at what the city is eating and drinking. Whether you drop in for a gin, a long breakfast or a quiet drink by the fire, it is one of those Belfast institutions that is best experienced rather than read about.
