If you are looking for Mexican food in downtown Austin that does not compromise on dietary restrictions, ATX Cocina is a name that comes up early and often. It opened in 2017 in the Northshore residences building at 110 San Antonio St, just a short walk from the 2nd Street District, and it has since carved out a specific niche: the entire kitchen is 100% gluten-free and seed oil-free. That is not a small detail when you consider the staples of Mexican cooking, and it is the first thing worth knowing before you book a table.
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The most telling part of the menu is what is missing. There are no flour tortillas here. Instead, the kitchen sources heirloom corn from Mexico, nixtamalizes it, and mills it in-house to make its own masa and tortillas, including varieties from Oaxaca. That house-made masa carries through the sopes, the queso, and the seafood dishes. Among the standouts are the Snapper Crudo with celery, green apple, and hibiscus ponzu; sopes topped with cochinita pibil; Brussels sprouts with an agave vinaigrette; a whole roasted fish served with a homemade tortilla; and a Carne Asada made from a wagyu flank cut with a pecan crust, chimichurri, and roasted onions. Rounding out the list are hamachi in coconut milk, a cochinita pibil tamal, tacos de carnitas served four to an order, esquites with smoked aioli, and bunuelos with rum sauce and flan ice cream, with choco flan for dessert.
Behind the food is a team with a clear pedigree. Executive Chef Kevin Taylor previously ran the kitchen at El Vez, and ATX Cocina is the sister restaurant to Bulevar Mexican Kitchen up in North Austin, which shares the same gluten-free and seed oil-free philosophy. The room itself is worth a look: local architect Michael Hsu, founder of the Michael Hsu Office of Architecture, designed the space around a vaulted ceiling of hemlock and pine. The firm has been based in Austin since 2005, so the building you sit in is as much a part of the city as the food on the table.
At the bar, the focus leans toward mezcal cocktails and hand-shaken margaritas, with a selection of wines and beers to fill in the gaps. The most talked-about drink is the Watermelon Tiki Punch, a nine-ounce pour of vodka and tequila topped with smoked chile salt that is not vegan and is made in strictly limited quantities, with only six available per night and a party of four required to order it.
On the practical side, dinner service runs from 5:00 to 9:00 PM, with the restaurant open Monday through Thursday from 5:00 to 10:00, Friday and Saturday from 4:00 to 10:00, and Sunday brunch from 11:00 to 3:00. Happy hour runs Monday through Thursday from 5:00 to 6:00, Friday and Saturday from 4:00 to 5:00, and Sunday from 3:00 to 5:00, and is limited to the bar, lounge, and patio. Valet is complimentary, and there is a $25 fee if you bring in an outside dessert. Expect to spend somewhere in the $30 to $90 range per person. The Infatuation gave it an 8.4 out of 10, and it has been on the radar of Austin Monthly and The Statesman since it first opened.
